Showing posts with label homemade pasta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label homemade pasta. Show all posts

Monday, March 12, 2012

Homemade Pasta: Soba Noodles

Not long after I finished the orecchiette, I was reading on a friend’s blog about how much her son, who apparently can be quite a picky eater, relished soba noodles.  Still in the pasta making mindset, a light bulb went off that I had never made soba noodles.  In fact, I think I’ve only eaten them a handful of times.  For some reason they just aren’t something I think to buy.

dough after resting
Since I wasn’t that familiar with them, I did a little online research.  Most of the recipes I found included using a combination of buckwheat and whole wheat flour at an 8:2 ratio.  Some recipes used whole eggs, some used whole eggs and yolks, some used oil, some didn’t.  I figured with all of the variations out there, I’d apply what I learned, wing it and adapt the recipe I used for the orecchiette. 

Let me begin by saying I don’t think the dough for soba noodles (at least my version) is ideal for the food processor.  I don’t have a photo of the mess I made because my hands were covered, covered, in thick, sticky buckwheat dough.  (The recipe below does not include using the food processor.)  I ended up kneading a small amount of extra buckwheat flour into the dough to firm it up a little.  When it got to the point that I could handle it without it sticking to me, I wrapped it up and stuck it in the refrigerator.

noodles cut by machine
The next day I rolled out some of dough to cut noodles by hand.  It didn’t go well.  To begin with, I think I actually rolled the dough too thinly.  And I didn’t rotate it frequently enough.  The dough will stick to a silicon mat – not horribly, but enough to make things difficult.  Additionally, although the dough didn’t feel dry, it behaved like it was too dry.  I ended up rolling it all back up into a ball, re-wrapping it and putting it back in the refrigerator. 

letter-folded dough
The extra day in the refrigerator made all the difference.  It allowed the flour to fully and evenly absorb the liquid from the eggs.  Feeling a bit gun-shy on rolling and cutting the noodles by hand, I got out my manual pasta roller/cutter.  After cutting two sheets of noodles, I decided to go back to trying to roll and cut them myself.  I didn’t roll the dough as thinly this time and with the extra day resting, it rolled perfectly.  And it ended up being much quicker than running small pieces through the pasta machine repeatedly. 

cutting noodles by hand
Several of the recipes I found included photos on how to cut the noodles.  It appeared as though the dough was letter folded and sliced.  I cut the noodles that way and then laid them out in a single layer on flour sack towels to dry.  Apparently as they dried and contracted, the pull on the folded areas was enough to break the noodles apart.  While I’m not heartbroken over that, the noodles cut with the pasta machine are much more aesthetically pleasing.  I think rolling the dough by hand and cutting the noodles with the machine would be the ideal solution.

original drying method
As for drying, my original thought was to leave the noodles to air dry.  The weather has intervened and since it’s been damp and rainy I ended up putting them in the dehydrator.  I wasn’t thinking about how much they had dried when I cooked some for dinner this evening; and I’m not sure if soba noodles needed longer to cook than traditional pasta.  They needed more time than I gave them and were very al dente in my stir fry.  I think I’ll boil another handful tomorrow just to see how they are when properly cooked. 

the finished noodles


Soba Noodles
2 cups buckwheat flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
4 large eggs
1 tsp black sesame oil
1 tsp peanut oil
All-purpose flour for rolling

Combine the flours in a large bowl.  In a separate bowl, beat the eggs lightly with the oils.  Make a well in the center of the flours and add the egg oil mixture.  Stir with a wooden spoon, starting in the center and working your way out.  When the dough gets too stiff to stir, use clean hands to thoroughly combine.

Form the dough into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for one to two days.  Allow dough to warm up for 20 – 30 minutes before rolling. 

Use a mesh strainer or sifter to dust flour on a large silicon mat.  (The silicon mat is not required, but definitely makes it easier.)  Cut the dough in half, placing half in the center of the flour and re-wrapping the other half.  Dust the top of the dough with flour and flatten with the heel of your palm into a disk.

Roll the dough into a rectangle about 1/16th of an inch thick.  Rotate and flip the dough frequently and dust with flour as needed to keep from sticking.  Very lightly dust the top of the dough with flour and fold into thirds like a letter.  Turn the dough so that one of the folded edges and in front of you.  Trim the unfolded edges evenly and then cut the noodles from folded edge to folded edge approximately 1/4-inch wide.  Transfer the noodles to baking sheets lined with lint free towels and unfold in a single layer.  Repeat with the remaining half of dough.

If you prefer to use a pasta roller/cutter, follow the directions with your machine and begin with smaller pieces of dough.  When rolling the dough, keep in mind the length of noodles you want.  It’s possible to make really long noodles, but storing them may be problematic.

The noodles may be used fresh or dried.  For storage, allow the noodles to dry until brittle.  If desired, the noodles can be dried in the oven set on the lowest temperature.  I've not tried freezing fresh noodles, but that may also be a possibility.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Homemade Pasta: Orecchiette

Every so often, I go through a phase of making pasta from scratch.  There are multitudes of accessories for making and shaping pasta.  I own quite a few of them myself and am always on the look out for vintage pasta equipment.  Even with all of the gadgets though, I still prefer to make pasta by hand.

I’ve made pasta dough using the “well method” of mounding the flour, placing the wet ingredients in a well in the center and gradually drawing in the flour.  It’s messy, but authentic.  I’ve made it in my stand mixer - less messy and not so authentic.  I’ve made pasta dough in an electric pasta maker which mixes and extrudes the pasta - absolutely nothing authentic about that.  This thing is not fun to clean and I only use it when I want to make tube-shaped pastas. 

This time I made the pasta in the food processor based on this recipe from Williams-Sonoma.  I did substitute about half of the all-purpose flour for semolina flour.  (Of note:  the fault I find with this recipe is that it calls for “4 eggs” without specifying the size of the eggs.  Since my eggs were extra-large, I needed more flour than the recipe required.  Should I use this recipe again, I’ll probably just go with three extra large eggs.) 

Orecchiette is one of my favorite pasta shapes.  Orecchiette means “little ears”.  It’s quite simple and doesn’t necessarily require any of the special equipment in my possession.  Williams-Sonoma also has instructions on shaping orecchiette.  My homemade version uses a slightly different method and doesn’t look like the little saucer-shaped orecchiette you buy packaged.  They look more like . . . well . . . little ears.

Begin by slicing off a piece of pasta dough.  Keep the rest covered.
Roll the pasta dough into a rope about 1/2-inch thick.  My dough
was quite elastic and would snap back a bit after rolling.
Cut the dough rope into 1/2-inch pieces with a bench scraper
or thin-bladed knife.  My intent was to use the guide on the
silicon mat, but that wasn't working out so well for me.

Instead I chose to pinch the dough and cut next to my fingers.
This is why I prefer a bench scraper to a knife.  I can be accident prone.
I tried to photograph shaping the orecchiette, but I am so right handed it's unreal.  My left hand was totally incapable of reaching the shutter release on the right side of the camera and completely inept at trying to shape the orecchiette.  My solution is this brief, extremely amateurish, video. There's no narration, just some strange clicking noise in the background.


After mixing the dough, letting it rest and shaping the pasta I loaded it up on mesh lined dehydrator trays and dried it at 95°F for about 24 hours.  I once read (I wish I remembered where) that the best pasta is dried at low temperatures.  It would have been great to let it dry naturally in the sun, but I wasn’t going to sacrifice that much real estate on the kitchen table.  It's worth pointing out that drying is not necessary.  You can use the pasta fresh, but it won't have the al dente quality I like in pasta.

The finished pasta.  I think some bolognese sauce is in order.
Before the pasta phase passes I’m hoping to get some ravioli made (still trying to decide on the filling) and some simple sheets for homemade lasagna.  And then there’s that recipe for sweet potato gnocchi that’s been collecting dust in a folder waiting to be realized and the virgin gnocchi board waiting to be used.